La carne, ese nuevo bien de lujo
Los aumentos en la carne son una constante en nuestro país, que hizo de este abundante alimento un bien pagable por pocos. Las brechas entre precio popular y extraoficial superan el 200%.
Aunque es producida inmensamente en nuestro territorio, la carne vacuna continúa aumentando y alejándose del bolsillo popular. En nuestro país la carne tradicionalmente fue un alimento asequible, aunque esa imagen cada vez es más difícil de creer. Hoy, los cortes de carne vacuna constituyen casi un bien de lujo.
Recientemente, el Gobierno lanzó un acuerdo con frigoríficos y supermercados para vender carne a precios populares. Sin embargo, la experiencia demostró que la calidad de estos alimentos era peor, y que fuera de los comercios en convenio la realidad era otra. Un informe de la consultora Focus Market reveló que los cortes en las carnicerías no adheridas pueden costar casi 3 veces más del precio anunciado por el Ministerio de Desarrollo Productivo.
Por ejemplo, cortes como el espinazo registran diferencias de hasta un 218% en relación al precio popular. Si bien el acuerdo se lanzó en febrero pasado, no prosperó y recién este miércoles se relanzó. En ese contexto se hizo el relevamiento de precios.
Para tomar este promedio, Focus Market hizo una comparación triple: contempla los precios anunciados por el Gobierno, los valores promedio de los comercios no adheridos y los precios más altos del mercado. Así, se encontraron las siguientes diferencias.
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El aumento y el cambio en la connotación que está ganando la carne vacuna también se explica por su exponencial inflación. Un informe del Instituto de Promoción de la Carne Vacuna Argentina (IPCVA) demostró que este alimento subió un 65,3% en un año, superando por más de 20 puntos la inflación del mismo periodo.
Así se despega de otros tipos de carne como la aviar: el pollo aumentó menos y entra cada vez más en la dieta de los argentinos que antes consumían carnes rojas. El mismo instituto reveló que creció la diferencia de precios entre ambos alimentos: en 2020 podían comprarse 2,99 kilos de pollo por cada un kilo de asado vacuno. Hoy el kilo de asado alcanza para comprar 3,66 kilos de pollo.
Entre las críticas al acuerdo de parte de los entes ganaderos, predominaban dos: la mala calidad de los cortes ofrecidos y el escaso volumen. Este último aspecto merece atención: en un país donde se consumen mensualmente 189.000 toneladas de carne, el acuerdo solo garantizaba la existencia de 6.000 toneladas con precio protegido.
Así, el alimento que caracterizó históricamente a nuestra cultura gastronómica perdió su razón de alimento popular y el argentino se somete a la tarea de modificar sus hábitos alimenticios en función de una billetera debilitada. Quien quiera vaca, deberá pagarla.
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